Successful bidders included Yves Saint Laurent and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The link between the fashion world and that of the arts was quite … "La Collection M. Jacques Doucet: Pastels et dessins." Ralph & Russo, Fashion in Motion, 17 October 2014 Depicts same object. Doucet initially rejected paintings by the up-and-coming Joan Miró, calling the Catalan artist "mad, stark mad." Catalogue of the permanent collection Pennsylvania art contributions Smithsonian Libraries and Archives, Natural History Building, 10 th St. and Constitution Ave. NW, Washington DC, 20560 Third part: Catalog of furniture & works of art from the 18th century. © 2021 Condé Nast. Eighteenth-century French antiques defined the taste of the Belle Epoque, and Doucet joined the throng. Initially Jacques Doucet had had the luck to land in a period of fashion that perfectly matched his own design sensibilities. For its spring/summer 2018 men’s collection, the fashion house Maison Margiela has provided some spectacular examples of the kimono’s influence. 1907 - 1924 Jacques Doucet (1853-1929), Neuilly (Paris). The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. In the near future the public will have two opportunities to take in his significance: a tribute mounted by Galerie Vallois at Paris’s Biennale des Antiquaires in September, and a show at the city’s Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent next spring. A silvered-iron staircase by sculptor Joseph Csaky ascended to three rooms so packed with modern art, African masks, and Orientalia that they had a Victorian aura, recalling the rich decor at rue Spontini. Doucet was born in Paris in 1853 to a prosperous family whose lingerie and linens business, Doucet Lingerie, had flourished in the Rue de la Paix since 1816. Doucet donated his collection of art books and research to the University of Paris in 1917, transferred to the Institut National d'Histoire de l'Art in 2003 and, at his death in 1929, his collection of manuscripts by contemporary writers for which the University created in his honour the Bibliothèque littéraire Jacques-Doucet. Beginning in 1912, the fashions of Jacques Doucet were illustrated in the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Tonwith six other leading P… All rights reserved. ... A day dress by Jacques Doucet … But only five years after Doucet moved into that palace of nostalgia, cognoscenti on both sides of the Atlantic were shocked to learn he was selling it all. Jacques Doucet fashions from the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection Ducet designed for a generation of women at a time when fashion was going through a paradigm change. Inheriting a lace and lingerie establishment in Paris, Doucet expanded the family business by opening a couture department in the 1870s. Courtesy les Arts Decoratifs, all rights reserved. Purchased from Picasso in February 1924 - 1929 Madame Jacques Doucet (Jeanne Roger), Neuilly. But weeks later he hung two Mirós in his bedroom, saying, "When I wake up in the morning, I see them, and I am happy for the rest of the day.". The artist, Paris. Genealogy profile for Jacque Marc Doucet Jacque Marc Doucet (1779 - 1779) - Genealogy Genealogy for Jacque Marc Doucet (1779 - 1779) family tree on Geni, with over 200 million profiles of … Given the superlative quality of what he had amassed, few observers were surprised when the four-day sale broke records. The table disappeared into private hands in 1972, when the fashion designer’s heirs auctioned his relics at Hôtel Drouot—another record-breaking Doucet dispersal. Culture: French. The hôtel particulier, owned by Doucet was designed by the architect Paul Ruaud. With the aid of Georges Hoentschel, the influential decorator-dealer, Doucet then conjured interiors replete with exquisite treasures. Unfortunately, he did not attract the daughters of these women with his designs and he … A Look at Fashion Designer Jacques Doucet's Private Collection By day Jacques Doucet designed gowns for the international elite—but away from … Interestingly, but for very different reasons, neither Poiret's nor Doucet's houses productively survived World War I. [6], Jacques Doucet's hôtel particulier, 33 rue Saint-James, Neuilly-sur-Seine, 1929 photograph Pierre Legrain. The future spokesman of the Surrealist movement pushed the formal, fussy designer right to the cutting edge, cajoling him to acquire what would come to be seen as masterpieces of 20th-century art, the greatest being Picasso’s 1907 Cubist canvas of preening prostitutes, Les Demoiselles d’Avignon, today in Manhattan’s Museum of Modern Art. Managed by: Richard Arthur Neary: Last Updated: December 1, 2014 The museum was established in 1996 according to the wishes of Jean and Paulette Angladon-Dubrujeaud, heirs to the widow of the Parisian couturier Jacques Doucet (1853-1929). Shortly before the Great Depression, when Jacques Doucet was in his 70s, the distinguished Paris couturier paused to reflect on the extraordinary art and furniture he had assembled over the course of five decades. Vionnet's first collection is said to have been revolutionary not only for the house but also the time. Dictionary Collections Architectural Digest may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. Many bidders went home empty-handed, including the American painter Walter Gay, whose wife, Matilda, scribbled in her diary that Doucet deaccessioned everything because the woman he loved had died before they could marry. Collection Jacques Doucet [deluxe edition] by Galerie Georges Petit ; Dacier, Emile, 1876-1952 ; Nicolle, Marcel ; Vitry, Paul, 1872-1941 ; Lair-Dubreuil, F. (Fernand) ; Baudoin, Henri As an ambitious bourgeois anxious to become a man of the world, he expanded the business into the more glamorous milieu of haute couture in the 1870s. Doucet’s flirtation with the au courant metastasized into an obsession—perhaps fueled by his 1919 marriage to a much younger woman—that was encouraged by modernist writer André Breton, whom Doucet hired in 1921 to be his librarian. Not only did he collect wisely and well, but more significantly, he was the first fashion designer to graft his lifestyle onto his professional persona, paving the way for modern tastemakers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld. A sprightly François Boucher allegory of poetry that graced the house sold at Sotheby’s in June for $340,000. 1929 - September 1937 Jacques Seligmann & Co., New York Credit Line: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Orme and R. Thornton Wilson in memory of Caroline Schermerhorn Astor Wilson, 1949 1907 Theatre Actress dressed in lace. Outstanding, too, was a pair of ravishing plaster sculptures by Clodion, life-size depictions of nymphs bearing platters of fruit, both now in the Philadelphia Museum of Art. This beautiful gown was designed by Jacques Doucet, printed on the front cover of La Mode Illustree – appearing in 1907. Doucet was a designer of taste and discrimination who valued dignity and luxury above novelty and practicality, and gradually faded from popularity during the 1920s. In 1871, Doucet opened a salon selling ladies' apparel. He was famed for his extravagant gowns, tailored suits and luxurious coats. De Goya à Matisse : estampes de la collection Jacques Doucet, Bibliothèque d'art et d'archéologie, Paris, 14 mars 1992-8 juin 1992 by Pierre Gassier ( Book ) Jacques Doucet : collectionneur et mécène ( Book ) Though Doucet seems to have handed over the reins of his fashion house to others, he could not resist having a say in the art and furniture he commissioned, sometimes to the chagrin of the hired talents. Among the trophies was a highly unusual rococo armchair carved to resemble blooming branches, a piece later acquired by philanthropist couple Jayne and Charles Wrightsman, who gave it to New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Collection Features Explore the stories behind our collections through thematically-related items; Other Repository Surveys Art-related archival materials located in other libraries and repositories Jacques Doucet, the famed Parisian couturier and art collector, is one of the earliest figures who is responsible for the commission of important pieces such as a unique armchair by Marcel Coard (lot 18) and Tête de Lionne by Joseph Csaky (lot 17). During his life, Jacques Doucet acquired a magnificent collection of works from the 18 th century, furniture from the Far East and pieces from artists of the modernity: Van Gogh’s Irises (Los Angeles, The Getty Museum), Picasso’s Demoiselles d’Avignon (New York, The Museum of Modern Art), Rousseau’s Snake Charmer, The Circus sketch by Seurat or On the Beach by Manet (all Paris, The Musée d’Orsay). Credit Line: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Designated Purchase Fund, 1990. Accession Number: 2009.300.579a, b That tactic succeeded, and soon actress Sarah Bernhardt and novelist Edith Wharton were wrapping themselves in his ensembles, all luxurious yet conventional—as was Doucet’s first important collection of art and furnishings. Beginning in 1912, the fashions of Jacques Doucet were illustrated in the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton with six other leading Paris designers of the day – Louise Chéruit, Georges Doeuillet, Jeanne Paquin, Paul Poiret, Redfern & Sons, and the House of Charles Worth. A collector and patron of the arts, the fashion designer Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) started building up from 1916 an exceptional literary library whose distinctive feature is that it brings together, around single works of literature, not only rare editions but also all the documents that enable us to understand their origin and elaboration (manuscripts, corrected proofs, correspondence). Jean-Baptiste Greuze. An enthusiastic collector of eighteenth-century furniture, objets d'art, paintings, and sculptures, many of his gowns were strongly influenced by this opulent era. Not only will Doucet’s remarkable life of collecting and patronage receive its due, the couturier will once again be the talk of le Tout-Paris. Culture: French. Its studio would be the most spectacular of his spaces, furnished with all manner of high-quality gems. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement and Your California Privacy Rights. His most original designs were those he created for actresses of the time. Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) was one of the best known and most highly respected couturiers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Delete Resource - Handwritten list of Madame Jacques Doucet's collection of artwork by Picasso enriched with photogravure plates, paperback , (damaged cover, clean interior). Edmé Sommier, château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, France. Jacques Doucet (1853-1929) was a celebrated Parisian couturier as well as a prominent art and design patron, working with avant-garde artists such as Marcel Coard, Pierre Legrain and Gustave Miklos. Medium: silk, linen, rhinestones. [5] Francois Chapon wrote a book titled C'etait Jacques Doucet about the life and work of the fashion designer. Cécile Sorel, Rejane and Sarah Bernhardt (for whom he designed her famous white costume in L'Aiglon) all often wore his outfits, both on and off the stage. Of course, today Doucet is revered by connoisseurs and art historians not for his clothing designs but for what he owned and why. In 1928 Doucet shifted his focus to 33 rue Saint-James, his wife’s house in the suburb of Neuilly-sur-Seine. Robe à transformation embroidered with a motif of clouds and bees, 1900-1905 ca. Its attenuated cabriole legs, delicate swags, and flowering-urn ornamentation reference the Louis XV period, but the diminutive artifact is surfaced in then-fashion-forward shagreen and ebony. Mme. Works by Picasso and Max Ernst joined made-to-order furniture such as Marcel Coard’s boatlike sofa, which ended up in the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts. Designer: Jacques Doucet (French, Paris 1853–1929 Paris) Date: 1900–1903. Ironically, many of the pieces he ordered drew inspiration from the 18th-century styles he had forsaken. 1906 Mauclair, Camille. This work is included in the Provenance Research Project, which investigates the ownership history of works in MoMA's collection.. Mourning did not alter Doucet’s acquisitive nature. For the aforementioned actresses he reserved a particular style, one which consisted of frills, sinuous curving lines and lace ruffles the colors of faded flowers. Sales catalog. A Look at Fashion Designer Jacques Doucet's Private Collection By day Jacques Doucet designed gowns for the international elite—but away from the office, the Belle Epoque couturier was the fashion world’s first great collector A Look at Fashion Designer Jacques Doucet's Private Collection p. 27. Collection Jacques Doucet [deluxe edition] by Galerie Georges Petit ; Dacier, Emile, 1876-1952 ; Nicolle, Marcel ; Vitry, Paul, 1872-1941 ; Lair-Dubreuil, F. (Fernand) ; Baudoin, Henri Jacques Doucet: Birthdate: January 06, 1730: Birthplace: Port Royal, Nova Scotia, Canada: Death: Immediate Family: Son of Alexis Doucet and Madeleine Doucet Husband of Anne-Jeanne-Marie Landry Father of Marie-Ann Doucet and Joseph Doucet Brother of Charles Doucet. The effect—costly, daring, dazzingly layered—was the antithesis of the modernist dictum "Less is more.". Title: Day Dress Creator: Jacques Doucet Fashion House: DOUCET 21 RUE DE LA PAIX PARIS Label: DOUCET 21 RUE DE LA PAIX PARIS Manufacturer: Doucet Date Created: c. 1890 Type: Dress Photographer: ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama Rights: Collection of The Kyoto Costume Institute Medium: Ivory silk ”crêpe de Chine”, stencil printed of bamboo motif and hand … "Jacques Doucet's Studio St. James at Neuilly-sur-Seine", Bibliothèque littéraire Jacques Doucet (in French), https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jacques_Doucet_(fashion_designer)&oldid=1016842564, Wikipedia articles with RKDartists identifiers, Wikipedia articles with SNAC-ID identifiers, Wikipedia articles with SUDOC identifiers, Wikipedia articles with WORLDCATID identifiers, Wikipedia articles with suppressed authority control identifiers, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 9 April 2021, at 10:45. An enthusiastic collector of eighteenth-century furniture, objets d'art, paintings, and sculptures, many of his gowns were strongly influenced by this opulent era. Thence by descent at Vaux-le-Vicomte, sold Christie's Monaco, 1 July 1995, lot 142. To revisit this article, visit My Profile, thenView saved stories. Pronunciation of Jacques Doucet with 1 audio pronunciation and more for Jacques Doucet. The Angladon Museum - Jacques Doucet (French - Musée Angladon - Collection Jacques Doucet) is a museum at 5 rue Laboureur in Avignon. Jacques Doucet's little nephew, Jean Angladon-Dubrujeaud (1906-1979), a painter and sculptor living in Avignon inherit the collection in 1968. View a selection of collectibles once owned by tastemaker Jacques Doucet. Des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, 1906: 14, 73, nos of art the., ( damaged cover, clean interior ) with a motif of clouds and bees, 1900-1905 ca to rue! 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